Part 2: The Build Completed

Resin? Plaster? There was a point when this was all you had to choose from for Diorama accessories. Now MiniArt offers an alternative that is very nice, but they require more work than the traditional materials. This is where some modelers, judging from Internet comments, have a problem with these kits. This is a shame, as they are missing out on a unique experience that has, for the most part, been limited to aircraft modeling. This is not a hard kit to build. It is just different. To be fair, I should point out that I have some experience with vacuform parts. That said, I think most modelers with some degree of experience should be able to handle this kit. If you find that you need help, MiniArt has a tutorial on there website. http://www.miniart-models.com/ . Look for the assembly guide. Photos and videos are provided to walk you through the whole process. A few things the tutorial does not show that I feel will be helpful. Add a strip of styrene to all of the straight seams. 1/4"to 3/8" wide should be enough. Run it the whole length. Just glue it unto the inside and let about half overlap the seam, to create a tab. Check to make sure it does not interfere with the fit. When you glue both halves together this will help align them. And this will make the joint stronger. I used a little baking soda and super glue on the inside of the corners where the plastic was stretched thin. This will make them a little stronger. Go easy on the super glue, though, too much can cause the plastic to split! Ask me how I know… Parts fit is pretty good, considering that it is a vacuform kit. Everything lined up very well. A little filler is needed here and there, but for the most part gluing took care of the seams. To ensure this, use liquid cement and clamps. This will result in a good squeeze of melted styrene to work with after everything has had a chance to set.

The detail parts went together well, but you will need to do a little work on the lamppost base to get it to sit correctly. Also you will need to make shims, or little brackets, to hold the wrought iron sections to the walls. One other thing I should mention. Styrene thins a little as it is pulled into the form. Not a big deal, but it means the cobblestone street may not be able to hold a big model such as a King Tiger or JS-2. You may want to add some reinforcement under the street section, as I did, to help support heavy models. No painting guide is provided other than the box art. I do not see this as a problem, the wall section is generic, so let your imagination go. My imagination was failing me the day I started painting, so I copied the basic colors used on the box art. Photos of European streets were also used for inspiration. All paintwork was done with Tamiya and Vallejo acrylics. Oil filters and washes were followed with MIG pigments to help dirty things up.

Additions to the basic kit include the loose bricks and model railroad gravel. These items are not included in the kit, but they are inexpensive, and easy to get so they seemed like a good choice to dress it up a little. "Glass" for the lamp was made from acetate sheet. I have had a very enjoyable time building this model. It's a nice change of pace and an interesting challenge. And I am looking forward to building another. I would highly recommend this model to anyone who is interested in diorama accessories. I would like to thank MiniArt and Dragon Models USA for the opportunity to review this kit.

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