Part 2: The Limber

The limber may seem like a strange place to start -- not exactly the focal point of the kit. But if I build this in firing position, the limber will be a bit player and no one will care about it at the end. If I build it in travel position, my experience with other guns is that it's handy to have it ready to test fit the trails and things. And it gives a nice size introductory project that may tell us how the larger pieces will go. Before we start -- a plug for Gator's Grip Glue My fellow reviewer, Chris Mobley, did a review of Gator's Grip Glue (produced by IPMS'r Kenny Loup) for photo-etch and while processing it, I decided to order some for this review. And so far, I LOVE THIS STUFF!!! I have used very little CA yet and am just plain happy!!! It's more workable, easier to clean-up during and after, and I haven't glued my fingers together yet. Also if one bumps a fastened part, it tends to loosen but not shear off into never-never land. I do shake the bottle before each use. It probably isn't necessary, but having some Clifton Chenier (or any Cajun/Creole/Zydeco of your choice) playing seems make the stuff happier. The Trumpeter Limber I assembled the Trumpeter limber, very quickly, not worrying about neatness, etc. It looks lifeless with the Griffon instructions next to it. In particular with no detail on the grates and support arms, it's easy to miss that they are detachable. I also experimented with it and figured out the mods to correctly remove the grates for firing position. Cut the vertical supports from KA41 and glue them onto KD34/35. Glue KA41/42 to grates KD4/5. Do not glue KD4/5 together or to supports/limber. Glue supports KD34/35 to limber. Now you can stick the grates into the spades in firing position. Those with AMS could make some chains/pins to hold the grates to the limber. And away we go... We are on kit steps 24 - 29 and pages 6-7 of the Griffon instructions. The kit has 49 parts for the limber. The update set has around 130 parts, not counting bits of rod and wire. The instructions show which kit parts are replaced and which are kept, but not all the kit parts are accounted for. KD46/47 are replaced by A64/65 but this isn't noted. KA16 is replaced by B7/C17 but this isn't noted. KD12/KA38 are replaced by C11/etc but this isn't noted. KA6 is replaced by wire, but this isn't noted. And it is not specifically noted whether KA18 should be retained (nope) or not, but can be seen in their pictures. So there are issues with the instructions, although overall it they appear to be quite comprehensive. Just to finish up the math, it seems that of the 49 kit parts for the limber, 32 hit the spares box and of the remaining 17, almost half will be modified in some fashion. The rest of the kit isn't doesn't get this much wholesale replacement. It is helpful to break the pages 6-7 of the Griffon instructions into 13 steps. Page 6 divides neatly into 6 steps (1-2 upper, 3-4 middle, 5-6 lower). Page 7 is a bit messier; step 7 is across the left top, steps 8-9 are across the upper middle, steps 10-11 are across the lower middle, and finally step 13 (not really part of the limber) is lower left and step 12 is lower right. Thus: · steps 1-3 build the frame · step 4 builds the storage boxes · step 5 builds the springs · step 6 mounts springs and stuff to the frame · step 7 builds the grates · steps 8-9 mount the storage boxes and grates to the frame · steps 10-11 build the yoke and attach the frame · step 12 is a final picture of the above and the chains securing the trails I started by getting all the kit parts needed and cleaning and/or modifying as necessary. I believe simply scratch-building replacements for KA41, KA42, and KD49 would be just as easy, the latter because the shaft isn't straight and still has unneeded holes. Once you have done this, there is no need to look at the kit instructions for the limber again. You can start Griffon steps 1-3, 4, 5, 7, and 10-11 pretty much in parallel, but I have some suggestions that will make the build go easier. For notation purposes, the yoke attaches to the front of the frame, so the gun is at the rear of the frame. Step 1: The very first thing is to make two 6mm long wire springs from the supplied 0.3mm wire. It went fine once I figured out a 1mm drill shank made a perfect wrapping tool. Do not fasten C62/D18 until step 3. You can mount the inner spring hangers (A64/A65) but do not fasten the outer spring hangers (A64/A65) until step 6. You'll see why in a minute. Step 2: Do not fasten C63 until step 9, again you'll see why later. You can attach the inner and outer spring hangers (A64/A65). Step 3: Lots of tough and obscure bends here (A29/A75) and the assembly is weak -- study the instructions carefully. If you are building in travel mode, A29/A75 are critical to getting the grates hung correctly. Once you have it done, use B37/B38 from step 6 to give it some rigidity and then you can put the C62/D18 assembly atop them. Step 6: This is a tough step. The springs simply will not go into the frame if you follow the instructions -- that is why I suggested holding the outer spring hanger plates (A64/A65) until now. Fit the springs (you may have to do some sanding of the upper springs to get them to fit in the slots) then put on the outer hangers, then get the axle fastened on, and then proceed with the rest of step 6. Be careful, this assembly is weak, it doesn't sit well, and all sorts of little parts are vulnerable. Also do not mount KD22/C27 until step 9. I had trouble getting the axle (KD1) and springs to match up and stick and had to build a tiny reinforcing plate on the axle to get a good glue join. Also there are two holes left from unused kit parts that should be filled. And remember the axle is sprung but the grate mounts (A29/A75) attach to the frame -- allow for a bit of room for the axle to float between. Step 8: If you are going to do yours in traveling mode, you might want to defer mounting the grates until after you get all the chains and springs organized in step 9. Step 9: It takes a lot of sanding and filling to make the altered KD49 look decent. But the real problem is the chains/pins to hold the grates. The instructions on show two E1/pin assemblies but there should be four. What all this is trying to portray is a pin with a chain to keep it from getting lost on one end and a clip/chain on the other end to keep it from coming out. Make a guess at the right size for the pin and do what you think is right to make it work. The trail pintle KD3 will not fit between C62/C63 on the frame if you glued both on, and in fact I still had to trim the ends on KD3 to get a clean fit. I took off the kit pins and used brass rod -- once happy you can glue on C63 which we deferred from step 2. But note the pintle (including the handle KD22/C27) actually rotates a bit side-side, probably to allow some freedom of movement when clamping the trails and traveking in rough terrain. If, like me, you are going to put this in firing position, then in all likelihood the pintle won't be standing straight up but leaning as I've seen in pictures, and I've positioned mine as such. Step 11: The clips (E6) should be holding the other end of the pins, not just dangling on chain E2. The instructions do not show actually mounting the modified KD49, nor adding a set of handles to replace KA18, which cannot be used as they are too short. And here we are ... I've quit here -- I have everything for the limber -- the yoke, the frame, the grates, and etc. I will not pin the yoke to the frame until after painting, nor will I organize all the dangling chains until then.

This is graduate-level photo-etch -- not for the faint of heart or fat of finger. If I have learned one thing is to turn my head away from the work on the bench before giving a heavy sigh of relief or frustration. The Griffon photo-etch is excellent. It is very complex, but very well designed. The fold lines are well done and best yet, they do not break if you have to re-bend, etc. I really, really like the grooves/marks for gluing pieces -- not only do they mark the correct place, they provide a little strength to the joint. The instructions are good considering the complexity of the limber, but there are some problems. I noted the incomplete accounting for parts. There are things that can be done better and I've noted them above also. Probably the only two serious problems are the mounting of the springs and the pintle that I do not think can be accomplished as shown. There are a few issues where the diagram is in one perspective but the parts being attached are behind or under and thus you have to guess at them. But I cannot help thinking we are putting an awful lot of brass lipstick on a pig ... Next part(s) I'll be working the gun, mount, and carriage ...

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